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Oban, Scotland is one of the country’s larger West Coast towns, situated nicely on a small bay with views across to the Middle Hebrides islands of Kerrera and Mull. Oban provides a central jumping-off point for exploring the surrounding Argyll and Bute region both by land and sea, including the popular island destinations of Iona, Staffa, and Treshnish. But Oban is more than just a step in a larger journey; it is a wonderful and vibrant village with plenty to do on a pleasant day.
Amethyst skies harken an approaching storm as the sun sets behind the Isle of Mull as seen from Ganavan Beach a few miles north of Oban.
Prelude To The Purple Rain
Storm clouds turn amethyst with a dash of post-sunset blush as dusk approaches at Ganavan Sands beach near Oban, Scotland. An hour earlier the scene was nearly devoid of color – the water, clouds, and light were all just white, grey, and black. A few minutes later it became quite dark and started dumping rain. … Read more
Oban Waterfront and Village Center
The center of the village is located along the bay, with a small rocky beach in the center and the CalMac ferry terminal on the south end next to a small group of shops and restaurants on a pier. On sunny summer days the sidewalks are bustling with pedestrians ducking in and out the many businesses as pipers perform on strategic corners. Highlights include Oban Distillery, which produces fine whisky and offers tours of their operation, as well as Oban War and Peace Museum, a small local museum with free admission covering the military and civil history of the area.
Head away from the water and up the hill on Argyll St, then climbs the set of stairs and ramps known as Jacob’s Ladder to reach McCaig’s Tower on Battery Hill. Dating to 1897, this round structure resembles the exterior of the Colosseum in Rome. The tower encircles a lush garden and park with trees. The views looking over Oban are fantastic, especially for sunset. We did not visit McCaig’s Tower during our time in Oban but could see it from the water when we were on the ferry to Mull. I think I would have been more inclined to make the trek up the hill if the weather weren’t so cloudy and rainy in the evening when we were in town.
Dining and Lodging in Oban
Certainly Oban is the biggest town in the area, offering a variety of food and lodging options. We went with a smaller room at the more budget-friendly hotel The Scot on George St, which had a good breakfast and pleasant rooms. For more upscale lodging try Muthu Alexandra Hotel, in a beautiful Victorian-era building right across the street from the water, which features a really nice restaurant and an indoor swimming pool.
You’ve got a huge selection of dining options in Oban. Be aware that many places close fairly early even in summer, which squeezes everyone who didn’t eat on the earlier side into a few select restaurants which become very busy. Piazza, a pizza and pasta restaurant right on the water at the north end of the main downtown area, has a modern vibe, great views, good food, and plenty of bustle. Reservations recommended! Our number one dining experience in all of Scotland was completely unexpected – a tiny hole-in-the-wall eatery on equally tiny John St in downtown Oban. If you enjoy fresh Thai cuisine, you will be absolutely thrilled with Mandarin Thai Cuisine. Make a reservation as the entire restaurant only fits twenty people at eight tables. It is cozy and incredibly good. My husband and I go out to Thai food fairly regularly, and we both agree it was the best we have ever eaten!
Like Philadelphia and the Philly cheese steak sandwich, Oban lays claim as the originators of that seafood staple Fisn ’n’ Chips. And like Philly, several establishments in town claim to be the originators. We had an incredible lunch at The Oban Fish & Chips Shop where a half order of buttery halibut or flaky cod will fill you. I really can’t imagine being able to finish a full order in one sitting. The food was really quite good! Other competitors include Nories Fish and Chips just one block down, and MacGilvrays Seafood on the waterfront pier. Just around the corner from there is another seafood spot with outstanding reviews called Oban Seafood Hut, aka “The Green Shack”. If you’re looking for seafood, Oban is acclaimed for having some of the freshest and best in the country!
Dunollie and Ganavan
From downtown head north along the waterfront Oban Promenade if on foot or the adjacent Corrie Esplanade if on wheels to reach Dunollie Museum, Castle, and Grounds, the ancestral home of Clan MacDougall which features a small tower fortress along the water with gardens, a museum with demonstrations, and a small garden cafe. Entrance to the museum and gardens costs $10 UK. The facilities are mostly handicapped accessible. We stopped by on our way out of Oban but opted not to go into the fee area in favor of heading to our next destination…its fairly small and we felt we didn’t have time to watch the demonstrations. A few trails lead out from the parking area as well and we definitely saw hiking groups in the parking lot and people on the trails.
Continue to the roads end to reach the pretty Ganavan Sands beach park, which has a small parking fee during the daytime hours when the restrooms are unlocked. For the adventurous, continue north past the beach on either the beachside path or the rolling hills path to find a little spiral maze built of earth and small rocks above the rocky beach called Ganavan Maze. This is a nice spot with plenty of rabbits running around and pretty scenery even though the maze itself is small and nothing to write home about. Wild camping is allowed in this area. Ganavan Sands and Ganavan Maze are great spots for sunset with views looking across the water to the Isle of Mull in the distance.
Dunbeg
A few miles north of town along A85 is the newer community of Dunbeg which features two big attractions. The first is Ocean Explore Center, an interactive oceanic education center aimed at children and families which includes a good cafe. The second, found just beyond it on the point is historic Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel, which is never busy and has beautiful grounds which are always open and free of charge (there is a small charge to tour the castle ruins). We spent several hours here, first exploring the castle then the surrounding woods, beaches, and trails after the castle closed.
Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel is a wonderful spot that not many people visit. We enjoyed exploring the castle as well as the beautiful lochside woods on the castle grounds.
Dunstaffnage Castle
Darkening skies gather above Dunstaffnage Castle in the Argyll region of Scotland north of Oban. Visitors are able to walk the top of the curtain wall which surrounds the castle’s main courtyard, providing views looking out over the Sound of Mull, Ardmuckinish Bay, and the surrounding forest of the castle estate. Stairs hugging the side … Read more
Visiting Oban
We used Oban as our base of operations for exploring the wider area, returning to town each night. Eating your way through town is a great way to enjoy the seafood and excellent cooking the village has to offer. We found some fun and quirky shops, spent some time selecting bottles of whisky to give to friends back home, took care of essential shopping (I got my glasses repaired in town, my husband shopped for a sweatshirt as well as for a wool blanket woven in his family tartan pattern), and took some nice walks. Oban has everything you could ask for – all of the needed amenities and services, fantastic food and great little shops, plus easy access to beaches, hiking, and historical locations. Oban is a wonderful destination and a great place to spend a day on the beautiful West Coast of Scotland!
