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Scotland is stuffed with castles, with a higher density of them than anywhere else in Europe. Our first visit to Scotland revealed the huge variety in structures, functions, and states of preservation or decay amongst the castles in this gorgeous country. We limited our two-week trip to the Central Lowlands and Argyll & Bute (aka the West Highlands) regions, visiting all sorts of castles along the way.
While better preserved castles normally have an entry fee to visit, we discovered that most castle ruins (those without roofs) are free to explore! I really loved the eerie dilapidation of the walls and arches, with moss and lichen reclaiming the stone, and how adventuring up the spiral staircases into hidden chambers led the imagination to dream up how it might have looked in its prime centuries ago and what happenings transpired within the rooms where swallows now swoop and nest. What spirits remain among these once powerful structures which are now becoming ghosts themselves? For how much longer will they stand?
We visited four castle ruins and really enjoyed them all!
Lochranza Castle on the Isle of Arran features the best stonework of the many castle ruins we visited in Scotland’s Argyll & Bute region.
In Lochranza Castle
Red and cream stones add some color to Lochranza Castle, sprinkled in amongst the grays. Of all of the castles I visited in Scotland, this one had the most variety of types of stone. The light illuminating the left doorway is entering through the open front door of the castle.
Carnasserie Castle
Located up a wide dirt trail (an old road I believe) about 1/2 mile from the car park at the north end of ancient Kilmartin Glen, Carnasserie Castle was probably my favorite of the castle ruins we explored. The castle is situated on a hilltop with a level grassy lawn (perfect for a picnic) and a few benches. The west spiral staircase is really amazing, with such a thin central column and steps – I’m amazed it’s still standing let alone able to be walked on. At the top of the east stairs is a balcony walk with amazing views looking down into what was the castle’s main hall as well as looking out over the pastoral countryside. There are some sets of stairs to get up to the castle lawn from the main trail. Very cool and definitely worth the walk! Plan on spending 1-2 hours here including the walk to and from the free carpark.
The segmented central column of the winding spiral staircase on the south end of Carnasserie Castle is only a few inches in diameter, but the stairs are safe to explore.
What’s Up There?
Of all the castle ruins we visited in Scotland, Carnasserie Castle in Kilmartin Glen was the best. Not only does is have incredible views from the top, but the castle is in better shape than some. Dating from the 1400s, it has a few really cool features including this delicate spiral stone staircase. The central … Read more
Kilchurn Castle
The lochside setting of Kilchurn (pronounced something like kill-hoorn) Castle is what makes this one worth a stop. There’s a free carpark (gravel surface) off A85 just south of Kilchurn Bridge which, according to Google Maps, is open 9AM – 9PM daily. There’s a distance viewpoint at the carpark up some steps. Most folks take the 10-minute walk through a field down the level gravel path (lots of trail-wide puddles) to the castle, circle around it, then head back. The castle itself is built on top of a rock at the tip of a peninsula which protrudes into Loch Awe near it’s northwest corner. The view from the trail is clear on the entire approach. When we visited in summer 2024 the castle itself was undergoing extensive interior restoration and stabilization work and was fenced off, so exploring the interior of the castle was not possible. Head east on A85 then turn right onto A819 to reach a small roadside layby with field access and great views of Kilchurn Castle from across the loch. Plan to spend 30-45 minutes here if you do the walk to the castle, which is quite popular.
Skipness Castle
Of the four castle ruins we visited, Skipness Castle is the largest and the least visited. Tucked out of the way along the western shore of Campbelltown Peninsula, we stumbled upon Skipness totally by accident when we arrived really early to the little Claonaig – Lochranza ferry en route from Kilmartin Glen to Isle of Arran and went searching for a bite to eat. We found a wonderful little kitchen with nice indoor & outdoor seating called Skipness Seatood Cabin, and right next door was the grand ruins of Skipness Castle! Most of this castle is just defensive walls and big grassy courtyards, but there is a keep with several levels to explore. This castle was clearly a mighty fortress at one point, with very high walls, layers of courtyards, and enough space to hold a sizable cavalry. There is also a chapel ruin nearby. If you’re in the area this is a great spot, but it’s pretty far out of the way of anything else. If you’ve got the time to get here and you’re comfortable driving the single-track roads (which are mostly paved and not busy with a more rough final section) then plan to spend 30 minutes exploring the castle, more if you hike to the chapel. Free carpark. Gorgeous lochside setting!
Lochranza Castle
Found right on the water in the little village of Lochranza on the north end of Isle of Arran, Lochranza Castle features the coolest stonework we found at any of the four ruins. The inclusion of various colors of stone, including some that are red tones, plus the variety of sizes used, made this castle look amazing! In it you can find spiral staircases, a second blocked-off stairway, and even a small (and very dank) dungeon. Look around to find the pockets where the drawbars that once secured the castle door used to reside. Plan to spend 20-30 minutes exploring this small castle. The carpark is right down the road from the ferry terminal and is free.
We plan to return to Scotland, hopefully for an extended amount of time to really explore in-depth! If you have suggestions for other castle ruins to explore, drop a message on Facebook or Instagram, or send an email, and tell us which other ruins you think are worth the time to check out!
