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If you’ve always wanted to go to Mexico but have never been, make exciting Puerto Vallarta your first destination. What was once a fishing village has transformed into a medium-sized city which is growing in both size and popularity. From sunny beaches to mountain jungles to surfing on the blue Pacific, there is a ton of outdoor fun to be had! If you’re interested in local culture, Puerto Vallarta’s old town area is packed full. And if you’re looking for nightlife, you can find everything from thumping clubs to smaller rooftop bars to a variety of shows. With a range of accomodations from vacation rentals to boutique hotels to large all-inclusive resorts, a trip to Puerto Vallarta is a customizable travel experience for every budget.
I’ve visited Puerto Vallarta three times in recent years – once right before the pandemic, and again in March 2023 followed by January 2024. My husband & I were not completely free to set our own itinerary as we went with and rented a big house with a group of LGBTQ friends. I am very eager to return to Puerto Vallarta because there is so much to do there! Each time I visit I find three new things that I have to save until next time because I’m not there long enough. Puerto Vallarta calls you back in this way.
As a photographer I’ve been quite satisfied with the variety of photogenic subjects to be found in the Puerto Vallarta area. From historic architecture and cityscapes to palm fronds swaying in the tropical sunset you can find it easily here. The amount of wildlife in the estuaries and on the water, particularly bird species, is abundant. Iguanas are quite common too, and if you cross the Malecon footbridge over Rio Cuale between Centro and Zona Romantica there is a good chance you will see the resident crocodile that lives in the big pool beneath the bridge.
The Basics
The Puerto Vallarta area is situated around the mighty Bahia de Banderas (Bay of Flags) on the central Pacific Coast of Mexico, just north of the pronounced western point of mainland Mexico. The south half of the bay is in the state of Jalisco and contains Puerto Vallarta proper, while the north half is in the state of Nayarit. The Rio Ameca forms the border between the two. While the land is very flat near the border, mountains rise up as you travel around the bay in both directions, leading to dramatic points on both ends of the bay.
With a population of 570,000, the Puerto Vallarta metro area has four major sections. In Puerto Vallarta proper there’s the flatter and newer northern area along the bay near the river called Las Glorias which contains both the airport and the cruise ship port plus the city’s main resort area Zone Hotelera, Centro Pitillal in the broad valley behind it which is where most locals live, and the old town area nestled along the coastal hills to the south which includes Centro and Zona Romantica. Nuevo Vallarta is north of the airport along the coast in Nayarit and has a large and quickly growing resort area of its own on the beach.
There are essentially two seasons here: dry and wet. The dry season, when tourism peaks, is December-April. During this time you can expect clear skies almost every day and little to no rain. It’s usually quite comfortable out, with daytime temperatures around 80F/27C and pre-dawn lows of 60F/15C and no noticeable humidity. It can be breezy at the beaches (which are packed every day) during the dry season. By contrast, the wet season is hot and humid, with a significant amount of rain. The air and the ocean water both warm up and tourism declines. If you visit during this time expect smaller crowds, plenty of room at the beach, and an overall vibe that’s less wild…along with reduced hours at restaurants, fewer tours, etc.
Puerto Vallarta is perhaps the biggest gay travel destination in North America. Most of the gay-catering attractions are concentrated in the Zona Romantica (Romantic Zone) at the southern end of town. If you are part of the LGBTQ community looking for a fun place to vacation where you won’t have to worry about harrassment, this is the place. If you’re a gay male, this is paradise as homosexual men are what many businesses cater to specifically.
That being said, Puerto Vallarta is a great spot for families as well. Most of the larger resorts and all-inclusive resorts are located in the more northern Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone) along the beach near the cruise ship port, or are in Nuevo Vallarta just across the river in Nayarit. Both of these areas include golden beaches, upscale shopping and dining, family friendly activities, access to tours…pretty much everything a vacationing family would look for.
Similarly, Puerto Vallarta is a popular spot for spring breakers and travelers looking to cut loose. Puerto Vallarta is definitely a party town. The Centro, Zona Romantica, and 5 de Diciembre districts in old town are full of bars, clubs, and nightlife. Whatever adult fun you are looking for you can find it here.
Getting There and Getting Around
International flights land at Licenciado Gustavo Diaz Ordaz International Airport (PVR), very close to the Jalisco / Nayarit border and next door to the marina & cruise ship terminal. From here it is equally distant to the hotel zones in both Puerto Vallarta (south) and Nuevo Vallarta (north). There is no need to rent a car in Puerto Vallarta. Most big resorts have shuttles to and from the airport. There are also taxis (more expensive but more convenient when flying in) and Uber (more difficult when flying in – cross the big foot bridge on the side of the terminal to get to the Uber pickup area). When in town, Uber is a great option and is extremely inexpensive – most of our Uber rides were $5 or less in and around old town. It was $12 US from Centro to PVR via Uber on our last visit. Walking is easy in and around Centro and Zona Romantica. Similarly, everything in the Hotel Zone and in Nuevo Vallarta is walkable. For groups, bus charters are available if you’re heading out of the city.
Things To Do
The biggest draw in Puerto Vallarta are it’s glorious beaches and tropical climate. They stretch for miles around the bay and continue northward in the Riviera Nayarit. The ocean temperature is cool and pleasant during the sunny Dec – April season, which is also the busy season. At first it feels a bit cold but you get used to it very quickly and then it seems perfect. If you swim out at all you will notice the water at your feet is colder than the water on the surface. During the summer wet season the air and water both warm up. Hurricanes or strong storms are possible here July – October, similar to the Atlantic hurricane season. Water conditions vary greatly from spot to spot. If the ocean looks rough or the waves are crashing too strongly in one spot just stroll in either direction until you find someplace more suitable to enter the water. Generally the ocean floor is just sand at the beaches and it gets deeper pretty gradually, so don’t expect magical reefs or sparkling schools of fish. Sharks and other dangers in the water are typically not a concern but there are occasionally crocodiles in the ocean near the river.
One for sure thing to do in Puerto Vallarta is to stroll down the Malecon to Isla Cuale or Muelle de Playa Los Muertos in the old city area. Starting in Centro and heading south, this roughly one mile-long (1.5km) waterfront promenade is chalk full of cool things to see and do. Here you’ll find the Puerto Vallarta beach sign (every Mexican beach town has one), shopping, restaurants, local crafts, some nice smaller beaches without huge seas of chairs & umbrellas for rent, and several fanciful public art installations. If you’re lucky you’ll run into one of the artists who make intricate sand sculptures or gravity-defying balancing stone stacks practicing their crafts. The two stacked stone sculpture gardens along the water are both quite amazing. Yes you can build your own as well – there are plenty of rocks to go around! If you hear a high-pitched flute, quickly follow the sound to the huge metal pole along the Malecon for a chance to see the traditional Mesoamerican ceremony of men flying through the sky as they slowly descend in a spiraling ritual known as “Danza de los Voladores”. Generally this amazing skydance is performed twice daily, once around 10:30AM and again around 7:00PM.
Top left: The four Skydancers gather at the top of the tall pole before the ceremony begins. Bottom left: As “Danza de los Voladores” unfolds, the men spiral down slowly as they fly through the air upside. down. Above: This man is the musician, playing two instruments at once: a small drum with one hand and the notes of the whistle he is blowing with the other.
Danza de los Valodores
Danza de los Valodores is a traditional Mesoamerican ceremony in which four men known as Skydancers are suspended upside down from ropes which are attached to a central pole. As the top of the pole spins the dancers fly around the pole as they slowly spiral to the ground. This man is the musician – … Read more
A few blocks past the “Puerto Vallarta” beach sign you’ll run into El Arcos, a set of ornamental arches with a stage in front of them. If you’re strolling by the evening you’ll almost certainly stumble upon a live show of some type. We saw fire dancing, which is always cool. Head across the main street to Plaza de Armas (look for the big gazebo), which has some outstanding food booths set up on Wednesday – Sunday evenings. Just behind the Plaza is the iconic crown-roofed tower of the Parroquia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. This old cathedral looks particularly magical at night and has been a landmark in Puerto Vallarta for over a century.
Leave the Malecon and head upriver at Isla Cuale to check out a big craft bazaar and market area. Upstream of that a very pretty and shady park has been developed on the island, with a few fantastic riverside restaurants sprinkled around. My husband and I ate a wonderful dinner at Las Brazzas and enjoyed some fantastic live music here. Rico Indian (yes it’s Indian cuisine) also looks quite good. The little plaza at the top of the island feels very old and authentic, and includes the Centro Cultural Vallantense which focuses on local arts & crafts. Several foot bridges and walkways provide access. In a city dominated by open skies and flowing margaritas, Isla Cuale is a quiet and shady hidden gem.
Sitting above the Rio Cuale on the Centro side of the river is Elizabeth Taylor’s residence in Puerto Vallarta. Today is has been transformed into Casa Kimberly, an opulent hotel with a gourmet restaurant. The Iguana Restaurant and Tequila Bar is open for dinner reservations for non-hotel guests. I will admit that I have not been (I didn’t bring anything fancy enough to wear!) but a night sleeping in the home of Hollywood royalty is absolutely on my list for next time! https://casakimberly.com/
Zona Romantica, the Romantic Zone on the south side of Rio Cuale, is a great area for restaurants, cultural events, shopping, and nightlife. The last time I visited there was a soloist performing arias from famous operas at the Estacionamento around 8PM every evening, and I’ve seen cultural dance ensembles here as well. On Saturdays there is a wonderful arts and crafts market in Lazaro Cardenas Park. Several theaters offer a variety of shows including residencies from some famous drag queens, celebrity impersonator performances, revue shows, and sexy dance troops. Head toward the big spiral structure out over the water known as Muelle de Playa Los Muertos for boat tours and to catch great views of the bay. Keep heading south to Playa Los Muertos if you’re looking for the gay beach, and get there early if you want a chair at any of the beach clubs because they fill up! More on Gay PV at the bottom of this article!
Many of the stand-out restaurants in Puerto Vallarta are here in the Zona Romantica. Favorites include:
- Tre Piatti: owned by the former personal chef of David Bowie, featuring a limited menu of Italian cuisine.
- El Brujo: a fun seafood restaurant – get the fried cheese appetizer served in a bubbling cauldron of green chile broth.
- Pizza Nostra: thin crust pizzas served with an incredible chimichurri sauce.
- La Dolce Vidas: straight-ahead Italian pastas with a big wine list and plenty of outdoor seating.
- Restaurante PALMAR: Seafood dishes with limited outdoor seating.
- Margarita Grill: All-outdoor bar and grill with a party atmosphere.
- Si Senor: Jalisco-style mexican cuisine set right on the beach. There’s also Si Senor Garden in the Centro Gallery District – basically the same menu but in a garden setting with a view.
Boat Tours and Water Taxis
If you’re looking for a tour of some type, you can find everything here. Many boat tours head to secluded beaches and islands, while others specialize in whale watching or snorkeling. Some boats have college party vibes while others are geared towards couples, families, or gay men. Sunset cruises are popular, including one on a pirate-ship replica. ATV and jeep tours can also be found in abundance.
Boat tours leave from both the cruise ship terminal in Zona Hotelera and from Zona Romantica. The boat landing in the Romantic Zone sticks out into the bay past a big modern art sculpture surrounding by a circular walkway over the water. Look for this landmark, known as Muelle de Playa Los Muertos to find tour kiosks and to get water taxi tickets. It’s especially noticeable at night when illuminated.
Water taxis offer another method of accessing some of the less developed beaches in the area. Water taxis leave from the boat loading pier in the Romantic Zone at Muelle do Playa Los Muertos and from Boca de Tomatlan (about 20 minutes south of PV on the bay). Since all of these hidden beaches are located south of Puerto Vallarta, taking an Uber to Boca de Tomatlan (about 12 miles south of Centro) and catching a water taxi from there may prove to be the easiest and most affordable option. Where this option may present challenges is trying to find an Uber or taxi to bring you back to Puerto Vallarta so make sure you have transportation back to the city arranged first.
To the South
Mismaloya
Mismaloya, just south of Puerto Vallarta along the bay, offers a great deal of fun recreational activities. Check out the Puerto Vallarta Zoo for a chance to see a variety of animal species. Snorkeling tours visit El Arco, a stone arch with a nice reef area. Or take a 4×4 tour or day trip to Edenva, a nature park featuring a series of freshwater swimming holes laced together by waterfalls. The park also includes a zipline course and a riverside restaurant, and is known for it’s biodiversity of butterfly and bird species. For movie buffs, Edenva (and some sites upstream of the park) was a main filming location for “Predator”. The beachfront area of Mismaloya has extremely limited parking. On the beach you’ll find several bars with chairs, food, and all the tropical cocktails you’re thirsting for. A little walk along the aging path to the point brings explorers to The Iguana of Mismaloya and a neat little ruin. It was easy to spot pufferfish and blue tangs in the water. Mismaloya Beach is not fabulous for swimming due to the constant presence of boats anchored just offshore or even boats landing right on the beach. Pelicans were extremely abundant, which is pretty cool. Note that water taxis do not leave from Mismaloya; instead they leave from Boca de Tomatlan, which is another two miles past Mismaloya.
Southern Beaches: Quimixto and Yelapa
From Boca de Tomatlan it’s possible to hike on a waterside trail to the next few beaches along the bay: first Playa Colomitos, then Playa Caballo and finally Playa Las Animas. Beyond that are the little beach towns of Quimixto (only reachable by water taxi) and Yelapa (reached by water taxi or by 4×4 vehicle). Of the two, Yelapa is bigger and more developed, and is visited far more frequently. We spent a few hours visiting Quimixto, which was a fantastic way to get away from the people and enjoy a quiet lunch on the beach at Coco’s Beach Club. All of the food and lodging in Quimixto is across the footbridge, which can be a little tricky to find: from the boat landing, head up the main road for abou 1/4 mile, then turn left down the little lane that’s right before the horse corral, then turn left and head along the river to the beach after you cross the footbridge. It takes about 10-15 minutes to get to this part of the beach where the restaurants and lodging are.
Quimixto has a beautiful waterfall that’s a 20-30 minute walk up the river – just cross the footbridge that’s right next to the horse corral and follow the easy/moderate trail, which switches from sand to pavement to dirt, always staying on the main path. It’s pretty clear which way to go. Once you reach the riverside beach and swimming hole you wade across the shallows and continue across the rocks, with the falls coming into view almost immediately. There’s an outdoor bar built on a rock terrace right next to the waterfall and it’s fairly expensive. If you want to swim in the main waterfall pool or hang out there you’ll need to purchase a drink or food (a 12oz bottle of water was $3 US). If not just catch a quick glimpse of the falls, then swim in the wonderful and free swimming hole you were just at.
We did not visit Yelapa, but several friends have. It has some similarities to Quimixto, including a waterfall with a swimming hole. The Yelapa waterfall is taller than Quimixto but has a much more variable flow. In winter the Yelapa waterfall dwindles to an unimpressive trickle, while the Quimixto falls has much more water and a reliable flow year-round. Yelapa has more to offer than Quimixto in terms of food and lodging. A round-trip water taxi ticket to Yelapa costs nearly double of a ticket to Quimixto. Food is more expensive at these remote beaches because it has to be brought in by boat, so plan accordingly. Also you will most likely not have cellular or internet reception.
If you take a water taxi to anyplace, be sure to be at the boat dock early for your return. The water taxi timetable is “flexible” and you don’t want to wind up stranded. They call it “Mexican time.” The boat will NOT wait for you!
To the North
Sayulita and Riviera Nayarit
Riviera Nayarit extends up coastline from exclusive Punta Mita north, featuring a string of small beach towns tucked into small bays and coves all nestled against jungle-covered hills. Sayulita in particular is becoming a well-known day trip destination. It’s got traditional cobblestone streets, a festive vibe, a fantastic beach that goes on for miles, a little central plaza, a wonderful craft & produce market, great restaurants, outstanding surfing, and tons of hidden gems. It’s cute, colorful, idyllic, and satisfying. Best of all, it’s small and mostly flat so it’s an easy town to just walk around in. An Uber to Sayulita from Puerto Vallarta old town area will cost around $40 US. It’s best to arrange your return transportation in advance as rides can become scarce in the evening. Or, better yet, stay in Sayulita for a night or two at one of the small boutique hotels sprinkled throughout town. Sayulita Beach really fills up in the afternoons, so get there early if you’re planning on renting a beach chair for the day. While you’re there: get a smoothie at Organi-K, take a surfing lesson, enjoy lunch at Bar Isla on the beach, and find the old Sayulita Cemetary and Playa Los Muertos by following Pescadores street west along the water. Other good eats in Sayulite include Ruben’s (burgers, on Paseo de Colores), Cafe el Espresso (found ajdacent to the plaza, serves breakfast & lunch and has a walk-up espresso window), and Si Senor (Jalisco-style cuisine in an open-air setting right above the beach).
Sayulita is such a wonderful village, vibrant and full of color. I look forward to my visits to Sayulita every time I visit the region. If you’re in the area for three or more days, do yourself a favor and spend one day in this lovely beach town!
Other Fun Things To Do
We took an ATV tour up the Rio Cuale with Xiutla Riders. They’re located in 5th de Diciembre district on the main drag. I don’t normally do things like this, but I have to admit it was a lot of fun and I’m really glad I went. I had zero experience with ATVs. Xiutla Riders made it fun and easy. Their tour was very well put together with a clear empasis on keeping their riders safe. We did the beginner tour which took us to Rancho Las Pilas, which had a bar and little swimming pools built around the rocks above a small waterfall and swimming hole, then to a nice viewpoint looking down the Rio Cuale valley, then finally to a small restaurant on the river in the small village of Colonia Paso del Guayabo, which had a great swimming hole and offered a tequila tasting featuring homemade tequilas infused with tropical flavors. Here’s their website, I highly recommend this: xriderspv.com
There are other tour companies offering ATV tours to other locations. One popular spot is Canopy River Park, which features ATV rides and a big waterfall swimming hole, plus the massive suspension footbridge called Jorullo Bridge which you can walk across or ride your ATV across. An exciting spot for sure!
Gay Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta has become one of the premier resort destinations for gay men in the western hemisphere. Here you’ll find gay hotels, beach clubs, bars, boutiques, cruises, and more.
For clubs and bars, Industry is popular and has pretty good reviews. Right next door is CC Slaughter’s (yes it’s the husband of the Portland OR club of the same name), and across the street is Mr. Flamingo, another hot gay party spot. Right up the street is STUDS Bear Bar. Avoid 69 Sixty-Nine, it’s pricey with rude service. For bars, Apache’s Bar, Blondie’s Loft, and Diva’s Bar are all more well-known, each with its own vibe. If you’re looking for a drag show, Act2PV hosts several different acts nightly and they’re advertising is everywhere in the Romantic Zone. The Palm Theater features performances by drag celebrity Mama Tits, who is sensational and we’ve seen perform a few times.
For beach clubs, there are four right in a row on Playa Los Muertos. Blue Chairs is well-known and has a gay hotel attached to it with a bar on the roof that features strippers at happy hour. Our favorite is Ritmos, which offers beach massages along with a decent menu of snacks and food plus all the normal tropical drinks. Mantamar has an up-front admission cost but is more upscale and has a pool.
